Prepping MDF/Card Board Terrain

[ARCangel]

I'm having trouble finding a definitive answer on what is the best thing to do for this. The top 3, from most expensive to least expensive are

1. Zinsser BIN
Pro - Good coverage, amazing product
Con- 15 bucks a quart and requires some sanding afterwards

2. Rustoleum Quick Color (Suggested by the guys from Top Down Terrain)
Pro - Cheap, 97 cents a can
Con - Requires spraying so weather is a concern, and I hate spraying

3. Sponge the paint on
Pro- Costs nothing more than painting
Con - Only found it from one source and while his building looked good, I like other sources to back up a claim.

I'm planning on purchasing MCStudio, Top Down Terrain, and Underground Laser products, so if any of those guys want to throw a comment on here about what they use, I would not complain, but mostly I'm looking to get the prevailing opinion of what everyone else does for their stuff, so I can get a better idea of what the standard would be. All the options are in my budget, and I live in New Jersey so in the summer humidity can be a real concern; not too bad, but it is there.

Thanks in advance for any answers.

[CoveredInFish]

My personal preference for prepping MDF is using a Shellac Sealer like Chestnut Shellac Sanding Sealer.
http://chestnutproducts.co.uk/results.p ... %20sealers

Its really easy to brush on, super thin so no brush strokes at all, you can sand for a super smooth surface or use it without sanding. It was recommended by Jed from Antenocities.

I once used a Zinsser product that I believe to be BIN (not 100% sure because other country, so other language and so different name). It worked well but was much less pleasent to work with than the Chestnut Sealer. Its a long time ago so I dont remember the specifics - however I decided to try Chestnut and I sticked to that.

If I dont use a Sealer I use acrylic rattle cans instead of a primer and it works okay but I end using more paint and dont get that high quality surfaces. Still good enough for most projects.


I have some thoughts and pictures about this in my blog articles here (no prep, just used vallejo primer in airbrush) and here (used shellac). You can see how rattle can acrylic works here (allhough the kum garage was a great project I didnt use shellac because I wanted to get things done quickly and spray paint was handy).

I hope my thoughts and pictures are of any interest.

[Claudius Sol]

I'm not sure where you're located, but if you can locate Valspar Primer + Paint rattle cans, that's what I used to paint all my warsenal gear.

Even painted some other stuff (like MC Studio crates).

[ARCangel]

I'm not sure where you're located, but if you can locate Valspar Primer + Paint rattle cans, that's what I used to paint all my warsenal gear.

Even painted some other stuff (like MC Studio crates).

We're in NJ so I don't think getting that would be an issue.

[schoon]

CoveredInFish has it right - it takes a little more time, but produces a really nice end result.

[VisOne]

I've never gone the Shellac route I use high gloss grey enamel primer for Card, MDF and HDF have no had an issue with wicking, delamination or burring with primers.

Have had A LOT of issues with other productions but if I prime first I cover off or nearly all issues. I also do a lot of sub assembly painting and you must be fidious with cleaning your sprues where ever you have to cut something out of its frame regardless of whether its Card, MDF or HDF cut it, clean it and sand it to seal that edge up like the laser/production would.

[ARCangel]

I appreciate all the answers, and its given me a lot of other options, I think I like any of the rattle can ideas just because its easier, and while I love the idea of using that Chestnut stuff, its not available, easily, in the US; at least so far as I can tell. I have a follow-up question now, since its part of the issue as well. I see a lot of you guys using acrylics, and airbrushes and such. What are your thoughts on using interior paint sample pots, something like Behr? My only concern is that it can mess up the details because of the amount of primer in it, even on the lower end one.

[VisOne]

They work fine require thinning alot of our and the pigments are bigger than model paints so I use my air sprayer not my airbrush.

http://www.wagneraustralia.com.au/catal ... #/overview

Excuse the Aussie website but I'm on my phone.

[VisOne]

Did this a while ago but here you can see my air gun used on not just the terrain, resin but that whole table!

And the assorted "cheap" paints.

[ARCangel]

Did this a while ago but here you can see my air gun used on not just the terrain, resin but that whole table!

And the assorted "cheap" paints.

VisOnesTerrain.jpg

That's a really decent job, I like the weathering and rust. Only problem for me is that I don't really have the space for a spray gun, or airbrush of any kind.

[Mob of Blondes]

Try artist gesso? It may need some light sanding. You can also make poor mans one by mixing acrylic paint and chalk (that's what some brands do, but sure they developed the ratio after tests), so you could go with the sample pots.

[ARCangel]

Try artist gesso? It may need some light sanding. You can also make poor mans one by mixing acrylic paint and chalk (that's what some brands do, but sure they developed the ratio after tests), so you could go with the sample pots.

Couldn't that clog the details, or does the shrinkage help?

[Section9]

Try artist gesso? It may need some light sanding. You can also make poor mans one by mixing acrylic paint and chalk (that's what some brands do, but sure they developed the ratio after tests), so you could go with the sample pots.

Couldn't that clog the details, or does the shrinkage help?

The shrinkage really helps with that.

One thing I found after changing to gesso for priming minis is that the gesso sucks up a LOT more paint. I ended up using 1:1 gesso and matte medium for primer to reduce the paint-sucking.

[Mob of Blondes]

It also depends on gesso brand. Some are very thick, some not so much, different formulas. I got a local brand and with thin layers you can still see the paper texture, with thick ones you get crackle effects (hey, two in one product ).

[nakedpanda]

http://topdownterrain.com/blogs/news/91 ... rimer-ever

For the cost, i do not know of anything better